bodner052

One of the fun things about going to a workshop with Linda Lee or Louise Cutting is that you often get a peek into what's cooking in the kitchen. During Sew Kansas last month, we got to see samples of 3 different tops for future patterns. One of these was this shirt: I understand that this one might become an e-pattern, as it is pretty simple. It would probably be ideal for that as it has just a few pieces and the fitting is minimal. I really like that they used a cross-dyed linen for the main fabric and a coordinating solid for the little inserts at the side. Towards the end of the workshop, I was allowed to trace it onto pattern tissue. This shirt or tunic has dropped shoulders, bateau neckline, wide 3/4 length sleeves, and narrow side panels instead of side seams. And it runs big, as you can see in my picture above. I understand that I was trying out the size Medium. Let's call it the Marseille. Yesterday I sewed my own version of the Marseille, out of a rough cotton fabr...

I'm preparing for a trip and it's going to be warm, so I'm adding a few hot-weather items to my closet. The Eureka seemed a natural as I really like my most recent rendition in a navy rayon pin-stripe. The new one may be just a little too plain. I started out with some ideas for changing it up a bit. First I added 3 inches to the length, thinking it might work as a tunic. It didn't. A little *pocket* bag just finished too. I tried it on before attaching the cuffs and instantly thought, oh, no, scrubs. Definitely not the look I was after. It had to be shortened. But I also think that the green cotton pique is just a little too flat. The texture of the rayon pin-stripe is much prettier. Then I created a V-neck but my idea was not totally successful. I realized that, it there is a sharp turn across the shoulders, then it is nearly impossible to force the bias binding to hug the neck. The neckline in the Eureka is a narrow oval, rather than a more rounded jewel neckline. In...

Here is the Egyptian shirt on me. See previous post for the details. Thanks for the kind comments.

Folkwear pattern #104 Egyptian shirt This is one of those folkwear patterns that is mostly composed of rectangles. It is fun to make something like that from time to time especially with a fabric that has a distinctive weave.  The fabric is a yummy linen I purchased from a local custom clothier who was cleaning out the stash in her studio a few years ago. It is very soft, not at all stiff like some linens. I don't know how to describe the weave, but perhaps you can tell from the pictures. It would be too sheer to use in this fashion if not for the geometric shapes in the weave. It is still a little sheer, but the front facing distracts. And I think it works on this BIG garment. The facing on this is shaped for traditional applique and then lots of embroidery. One day I'll have to try that! The first two times I made this (years ago), I reversed the facing, stitching it to the outside. This time I wanted to focus on the weave of the semi-sheer fabric and so placed the facing on ...

Recently I was asked to describe my approach to hemming an A-line garment. It is the one I used to finish my Soho coat, blogged in the previous post . It is that situation where the raw hem edge is wider than its final location. This happens often with an A-line skirt or dress. The upper edge of the hem wants to pleat or tuck if pressed into position. One approach I see in pattern instructions is to run a gathering line along the raw edge and ease it into position. I think that will work and might even end up looking pretty good. But my preference is to hem it with a bias strip. This approach is similar to creating a facing for the hem. With a true facing you would need to create the same curve in the facing as in the hem edge. No need for this with bias. Bias will re-shape itself as needed with just a little steam. Cut a bias strip of fashion fabric at least as long as the hem edge. I like to cut it 1.25 inches wide. Much easier than drafting a facing, as you only need to know how lon...

On this, my first raincoat make, the fabric was both friend and foe. The Soho Coat from The Sewing Workshop First, it is just a fun and interesting piece of fabric. I probably bought it from Marcy Tilton though it's been a while and she has nothing like it on her web site right now. It is a double-face fabric with black on one side and a black and cream stripe on the reverse. I think that the black side is nylon or maybe even rip-stop. The striped side appears to be a rayon knit. The double-face feature was great for this pattern since the wrong side shows. I decided early on that the solid black would be the right side. However I had to constantly remind myself of this as I sewed. My reptilian brain wanted the striped side to be the right side. More that once I pinned it incorrectly and caught myself right before bringing the presser foot down. I was cautious about sewing this piece because it is so different from anything else I've sewn. I even made samples! The samples show...

Thanks to Linda Fasules over at I Finally Have Time , for this almost irresistible pattern . I know some can resist this, but I cannot. It finished at about 8 x 10 inches with boxed corners.

Nothing could be much simpler. As is often the case, I found joy in simplicity. The Eureka top did not impress me when it first came out. But it has definitely grown on me. This is my second one. I used the recommended jersey knit for my first version. This is a non-stretch woven, a navy pin-stripe rayon. Cool and light weight. Super easy to sew. Now I'm thinking that this would be pretty in tunic length.

This peony vest is complete, more or less. It is the one I started with remnants from my nice basic boring gray linen pants completed at Sew Kansas. It may be just a little snake-bit, given the goofs I made in its construction. Luckily the hand-stitch was pure relaxation. I mostly followed the geometric shapes of the Marcia Derse print I used for the front lining and back facing. It is barely noticeable. I almost had a suit of sorts - pants and matching vest. I say almost because I managed to plant some bleach on the front of the pants before completing the vest. So now I'm considering creative coverage of that goof. It's not a big deal, of course. I have so many other pairs of pants that will go with this vest and I probably would feel a bit nerdy wearing it as a suit. And I may like the new version of these basic pants more anyway. A sewing buddy suggested I just wear these pants as is. Each time I'm with other people, I can exclaim, "oops. I must've spilled som...