Classic Shirts

Pam Howard is about to teach a local class on The Classic Tailored Shirt. Unfortunately it is sold out but I think you can still register for her class on Craftsy. It is a wonderful class, no matter how or where you take it. I've been lucky enough to do both.

Pam started my fascination with classic men's shirting details in feminine tops. Although I have to miss her local class, I decided to participate in spirit! I bought these 3 pieces at Gail K.

Brown: cotton sateen
Cream: Pima cotton
Gray: cotton shirting

Using an old favorite pattern, I started with the gray cotton. It was so easy and fun to sew. The Hibiscus pattern is an old favorite because it's a little different and it's a little puzzle. I do enjoy a pattern puzzle.

It takes a bit of time to cut it out because so many of the pattern pieces are cut singly. Here are the only ones I could cut on doubled fabric:

The sleeve has some interest with the inset at the hem. That oddly shaped piece fits into the corner cut out. The pattern includes a collar and collar stand, signatures of classic shirting. But I decided to make the collar stand wider, and omitted the collar. That's a look that I find comfortable and flattering.

There are definitely some tricky parts and so I was glad to have my first version of it handy:

I did cut out the gray one backwards so it mirrors my first one. Here is the most tricky part, IMO:

Before it is hemmed and top-stitched, it looks like this:

before

after (on the inside)

I found it helpful to hem the bottom before top-stitching the overlay. Speaking of the overlay, here is how it looks before the top-stitching. It creates a slight peplum all around the bottom:

before

after. (I love the little pocket.)

All in all this was a fun make. I've intended to get back to it ever since I finished the first one. This one is so plain that, of course, I added sashiko. 

The buttons also came from Gail K. They have such great selection.