Inside Out Chateau Jacket

One day DC and I were out shopping the thrift and consignment stores and I spotted a bed set. It included two pillow shams and a 90x90 spread. And it has two interesting sides. Score!

So of course I bought it and cut it up. Because that is what I do, right? Cut up pretty textiles.

This is my third Chateau jacket, a pattern from the Sewing Workshop. I think it's my favorite. I love the white wool one but I'm so afraid of soiling it that I rarely wear it! I do believe I'll get the most wear out of this one. 

The Chateau lends itself it a large interesting print as there are only two pattern pieces plus a back facing. It is intended for non-raveling fabric and raw edges. I was able to use two corners of the bedspread for the fronts and a another finished edge for the back.

I think that the embroidery stitch used on the edges of the bedspread is the chevron stitch.

The Chateau pattern also includes instructions for binding the edges which is what I did. I had a cross-dyed cotton remnant in purple and orange. Just right for this crazy print.

It's not really a print. Rather it is large machine-stitched patchwork on very light weight cotton that is then hand-stitched to a heavier burnt orange back. The two layers are secured with hand sashiko done in stripes of cream, blue and orange thread. The edges are folded to the inside and hand-stitched together using a chevron stitch.

The stripes are wonky, as you can see in the pic of the markings for my welt pocket opening.

The first time I finished it, I realized that I liked the inside much better than the outside.

I am quite fond of the subtle pattern of the stripes of big stitches. But then I am partial to visible sashiko. I hand-finished the raw edges of seam allowances (SAs) in the following way:

1. pressed the SAs open.
2. trimmed out some of the bulk
3. folded the raw edges under, and
4. fell-stitched the SAs open along the folded edge.

The finishing on the seam allowances accents the lines of the Chateau jacket:

I even like the exposed back facing.

As originally planned, the outside sort of wears me instead of the other way around. I sought advice from a number of sewing friends and came up with a fix that I like. It is now completely reversible though I will no doubt wear the orange side out the most.

In order to have functioning pockets on both sides, I kept the original patch pockets on the wild side and created single-welt pockets on the burnt orange side. The patch pocket works as a pocket bag for the burnt orange side.

Here's how I created the pockets: I removed the original patch pockets. Then I added a single welt pocket opening to the orange side. I omitted the pocket bag. Next I re-sewed the patch pockets in place. So on the wild side, they are standard patch pockets; on the burnt orange side I have welt pockets.

I used an older Sew Confident tutorial to make the single welt pocket openings. It is very clear and easy to follow. This is available through the 2015 subscription to Sew Confident or as an individual tutorial found here.

This is not great fabric. I've already discovered a frayed place just above one of the patch pockets. That's OK. I'll add a boro patch and be even more pleased with it!

So which side would you wear?